Days 7 and 8--Durango, Colorado

Saturday, September 7

What a difference a day makes.  The scenery changed dramatically from desert mesas and sagebrush to lush green mountains.  And unlike yesterday, we were all feeling a little sorer and less energetic.  We enjoyed a more relaxed pace over 70 miles.  

Out of Cortez, close to Mancos, CO

 Lunch was in the Mancos Absolute Bakery, and I paid the price of my pasta Florentine immediately afterward as we ascended about 2,000 feet to the top of the 8,000’ pass.  Big lunches and 15-mile hill climbs in 90 degree weather don’t mix well!

Descending the 8,000 foot pass to Durango

The 10 mile steep descent into Durango on new pavement was a delight.  Even more delightful, is the college town of Durango (Population 17,000) and our stay in the Historic Strater Hotel. 

The Historic Strater hotel

Parking Meter Adornmen

It’s nice to have a variety of restaurants (Asian, French, Tibetan, you name it), coffee shops, ATMs cell coverage, bicycle shops, and even traffic lights.  Best of all, it has a music store and a fantastic newsstand with  a huge variety of magazines and newspapers.  It is unbelievably bicycle and pedestrian friendly.  The median age is 30.5, which makes me stand out as an old guy.

I spent an hour in one of four bike shops getting new bike shoes.  My other ones were completely trashed about three years beyond their life expectancy, hence all the painful feet problems I have been experiencing on this ride.   The new ones are so comfortable, I feel like I could sleep in them!

Our two guides and a girlfirend

We enjoyed our first of two last dinners together at a Southwest/Asian fusion restaurant.  Six of the group headed home today, and I already miss them.  Now we are just nine. Our two guides and their spouse/girlfriend joined us.

Some of the gang

Four of the superheroes who did all of Day 5

Today was a vacation within a vacation.  A leisurely breakfast, a pilgrimage to the laundromat, reading the Sunday paper, exploring the shops, a burger at Grassburger, and cool jazz at an outdoor coffee shop as I wrote much of this.  Dinner tonight with Ron, Barb, Liz, and Dan, who have helped make the trip so fun.  In Ron D's words, "The apres ride activities are even more enjoyable than the rides." 

We start at daybreak tomorrow, 69 miles to Pagosa Springs over a 10,000 foot pass with major thunderstorms threatening around noon.  Hopefully we can ride the whole distance.

Day 6—Blanding UT to McElmo CanyonI CO

Friday, September 5

Everybody loved this day.  It was our best food day, only 66 miles, cooler, and we’re finally getting our cycling legs under us.  We stayed in a 1960’s vintage motel, and the proprietors, 5^th generation Hispanics, put out an amazing spread for breakfast.  Guilt-free cinnamon rolls!  I ate mine and the stuffed croissants while applying over a tablespoon of Tough Skin and over 8 square inches of  moleskin to my feet.  It seemed to help until about the last 10 miles.

About 5 of us rode in a fast 20-mph pace line for about 30 miles through the Ute Indian Reservation.  I got a flat, but it took me almost two miles to realize it because the road was so rough. (No wonder I couldn't keep up with my group!) Damn those goat head thorns!  It was so nice to have a guide and the talented Dan DeRuyter help, as I can barely change a light bulb, let alone a flat tire.

Lunch at mile 61 was our usual picnic (always a nice spread by our French guide/former chef) but this time at a winery, Sutcliffe Vineyards.  Fortunately it was only another two miles to our  Kelly Place, a B&B, retreat center and an archeological preserve next to the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument.  

Lunch view at Sutcliffe Vineyards

The place is on some ancient ruins, so I took a hike and explored a couple of kivas. Dinner was a fantastic SW Mexican buffet.  Why can’t they make food like this up north?

Mary inside a kiva

Exploring a Kiva--better than Mesa Verde NP

Tomorrow is Day 7, 70 miles and some climbing to Durango.  I will miss the six riders that are leaving us.  I’ve received a number of questions from readers, so maybe on my layover day there, I’ll do a post of Q&A.  Just maybe.

Day 5—Hanksville—Glen Canyon NP-Blanding, UT

Thursday, September 4--An almost epic day

This was the day we were all anticipating and dreading.  Called the “Queen Stage Day” by the trip organizer, it is 125 miles and 10,000 feet of climbing from Hanksville, through the Glen Canyon NP, the Colorado River, than a long climb up to Blanding.  I was so psyched up to do the whole thing, because the most I had ever done was about 112 in 1991 on the Seattle to Portland Ride.  It could have been an epic day for me, but it didn’t turn out that way.  As my good friend Tim Nissen said on Facebook, a little humility is good now and then. Yes, Tim, you're so right!

About to descend down to the Colorado River

On the way down to the river

The first 40 miles were glorious as we descended the high plateau in darkness, then headed down to the Colorado River.  

I sacrificed a good downhill run in half for this photo!

 Then things went from euphoric to very unpleasant in a few short miles with 30 mph headwinds, 102 degree temperatures, new very black, sticky, and rough pavement, and steep hills that seemed as long as the vistas.  The worst of it all were painful calluses on both feet. Vultures circled above.

 So, at mile 64, with great regret, disappointment, but relief, I flagged the van and joined the ranks of the 10 out of 15 who  didn’t make it the whole distance.  I have nothing but admiration for the three men and two women (one of whom was 70!) who went the whole way, in the course of 13+ hours.  Dan, age 58, did it with a broken hand. 

We were all too tired to go out to eat, so we simply had pizza and beer in the motel parking lot.  My new favorite?  Bacon and cheese!

Day 4-- Boulder, UT-Capitol Reef-Hanksville, UT

Wednesday, Sept 3

Today was even better than yesterday.  In fact, I’d like to retract my comments about Escalante being the most unique and scenic bike ride I've ever experienced.  The road into and through Capitol Reef National Park was nothing short of spectacular, especially on a bike.

View at 9600 feet  We were on the hoizon yesterday

Payback time, Baby!

About 10 miles from Park entrance

But first we had a 13-mile granny gear climb from 6,200 elevation to 9,600. At the top, we could see all the way back to where we had come from Bryce the day before.  

View from our lunch spot

The long, hot & windy ride into the park

Then a thrilling descent on a 10% grade (I hit 42 MPH) for a few miles until a gentle descent parts down to the Capitol Reef National Park where we had lunch.  The temperature  was 102.  The rock formations are stunning, and there weren't hordes of tourists and busses, especially those filled with annoying Asians in high heel shoes taking more photos of themselves than of the magnificent scenery.

It was a long grind to Hanksville, with some cross winds that nearly blew us off the road a couple of times.  85 miles total, but all in all, a very memorable day.

View from Visitor Center

Iconic Capitol Reef

The long grind to Hanksville

Days 2 & 3: Mt Carmel-Bryce Canyon NP-Escalante-Boulder UT

Monday, September 1—Mt. Carmel-Bryce Canyon NP

Red Rock Canyon

Bike path to Bryce Canyon NP

Finally, our first full day of riding.  The 53 miles and climbing to nearly 8,000 feet in altitude from Mt. Carmel to Zion NP went well, but for the very heavy traffic for the first 43 miles. After lunch, the last 10 miles turned delightful climb because we were on our own bike path into the park through the beautiful Red Rock Canyon. 

Waiting for our rooms to be ready

Riding across a high plateau of ranch land by the park entrance you would never know the canyon exists until you get there.  But once you are there, it simply blows you away.  Unlike Zion, where you are on the valley floor looking up, at Bryce you look down and across endless vistas.  The last time I saw it was in 2001 in the morning.  Now, in the late afternoon sun, the lighting was absolutely perfect.  As I hiked along the rim, I couldn't help but remember what a pioneer rancher had said about the place over 100 years ago:  “It’s a hell of a place to lose a cow!”

Tuesday, September, 2—Bryce to Escalante National Monument-Boulder UT 

A tough day, but totally spectacular; worth all 77 miles and 4400 feet of elevation gain.  The day started with an exhilarating 15 mile, 1500‘ descent in 46-degree weather.  Then it was payback time for much of the day with 11% grades as the temperature quickly climbed to 98.  I thought a couple of times I was going to faint with heat stroke, but It was the most uniquely beautiful ride I can ever remember.  I’d do it all over again tomorrow.

Lunch stop.

 

I Must have that jersey!

The "Hogback" seven miles from Boulder

 We are staying in a beautiful remote resort in Boulder, in “nowhere,” UT.  The locally-raised organic food, views, and ambience are outstanding, not to mention the company of our two guides and the other 14 bikers, who are fun, fit, and interesting.  Tomorrow—88 miles.

My room @ Boulder Mtn. Lodge

View from the decks

Day One--Zion to Mt. Carmel Junction

Mt. Carmel Junction, UT

I can't believe they got all of that on/in there!

So far, so good.  After getting our bikes and loading the trailer in St. George Ut, we headed off to Zion National Park.  

Angles Rest

I've been there twice before, and it always feels like an awesome first time.  We had the choice of hiking the “Narrows,” which is basically wading upstream in a narrow canyon.  Or, we could hike five miles to way above the canyon floor to Angels Rest in the 95+ heat, which is what I chose.  Beautiful views and well worth it.

Zion Valley from Angels Rest trail

Fron the Angels Rest Viewpoint

At last we get started!  What a great way to start.

We finally departed the visitors’ center and drove up the steep road through the mile-long tunnel, which prohibits bicycles.  After the tunnel and at the start of another one, we finally got to saddle up and ride at the 5,300foot elevation around 3:45 when it was about 90 degrees.  Zion is so beautiful, so spectacular!  At 6-32 mph, with 180 degree vision and unlimited sky above, you can really see a lot, and it’s easy to pull over and stop for photos.  I still didn't stop and take as many as I would have liked.  We rode only 16 miles (mostly uphill), but that was enough.  

Along the road to Mt. Carmel Junction

A swim and dinner at the Best Western.  It's a really cohesive group of 15 so far. My dinner companion was a former Shakespearean professional actor.  He does computer support for HBO in New York City for his day job but his avocation is teaching and directing fight scenes for theater actors.   Our guide is French, who has lived in the States for 20 years.  He also guides bike trips in France off-season, and used to have his own French restaurant in France.  

Tomorrow, we ride 55 miles uphill to Bryce Canyon NP.  I can hardly wait!  So far, so good!

Let the Adventure Begin!

Tomorrow is the big day.  I arrived in St. George, UT yesterday and we depart for Zion National Park tomorrow.  It’s supposed to get up to 101 degrees today, so it feels good to stay inside, reorganize my gear, clean up my photo files, upload the daily route maps to my GPS, and write this.

By the big obsidian flow

Paulina Peak

As I said in a recent Facebook post, I am sooo done (aka burned out by) training.  Time for the real thing in the company of people, a support van, and new scenery.  I’m glad I invested five days last Thursday-Tuesday for some higher altitude training at East and Paulina Lakes in south-central Oregon.  Kathy joined me for the weekend, which made it a lot more fun. 

Paulina Lake, Thrree Sisters & Mt. Bachelor in background

Neither of us can believe that we've been in Oregon so long and have never been there.  At 6,300 feet elevation, Paulina Lake is over 250 feet deep and I think the 3^rd deepest freshwater lake in the US.  The Newberry Crater is the largest in the Pacific Northwest.

We were told there was a “moderate” 20-mile mountain bike trail around the rim.  So on Saturday, we puffed our way up a steep dirt road to the 7,800 foot start near the top of Paulina Peak.  The trail was anything but moderate, and like our adventure at Steamboat Springs, CO in July, our skill level, fitness, and cross bikes were no match for the trail.  Fortunately, we got to bail out after 8 stressful miles.

After Kathy left on Sunday, it felt good to be back on my road bike on paved roads again.  Monday I rode 62 miles from Sunriver around Mt. Bachelor and back via the Cascades Lake scenic highway.  Lots of beautiful scenery, elevation gain, rough pavement, and winds.  I was pooped, but feeling pretty proud of myself.  Then I realized that I will need to do more than that almost every day of the ride, and more than double that on Day 5, with even more elevation gain.

Mt. Bachelor

The Sisters from Dutchman Flats near Mt. Bachelor parking lot

That said, I am so pumped and ready to hit the road, hang my Spokane friends Ron and Barb Douglas, and make new friends over the next two weeks and 885 miles.  Let the adventure begin!