Bali--Timeless but Changed

Technology everywhere!

Ubud temple and palace

The best way to see how a child has grown, a uncle has aged, or a place has changed, is to be away for awhile.  And so it was with our six-year absence from Bali. More motorcycles, cars, development, restaurants, guest houses, Chinese tourists, traffic, and overall prosperity.  Also since then, pervasive cell phone use by just about everyone and WIFI everywhere.

That said, Bali, with its beauty, temples, and spirituality are timeless.  There is something magical about waking up in this place and walking into town to take it all in.  The people are unbelievably friendly.  Fragrant smells, beautiful flowers, sounds of birds and insects, and art are everywhere.  It's hot and muggy, and we don't want it to end.

Our neighborhood--Shanti walking in alley to our home

After nearly 36 hours of travel, we made it, and it was worth it.  Having both Shanti and Skyler here for a few days makes it even more special.  We haven't been together since this time last year on our Vietnam bicycle trip.

View from our living room

Entry way to our compound

Yummy breakfast at a street stall

Our 1st dinner together in almost a year

Balinese graffiti

Getting ready for the big Gulangan Festival in 2 weeks

Bali, Here We Come!

We've often been asked, "If you could return to one place you have traveled before, what would it be?"  Without an instant of hesitation we reply in unison, "Bali!"  So in just five more days, we’ll be out of this cold, grey, and rain.  We’ll be in Bali, Indonesia for a month, our third visit since 1979.  

Orchid House

We've rented a two-bedroom home in the mountain artist community of Ubud for a ridiculously low price, cheaper than a Motel 6 in the States.  Daughters Shanti and Skyler are going to join us for the first 10 days, then we’ll be on our own.  We have connected with some Rotarians there and hope to visit Rotary projects my club and others in Oregon and Washington have sponsored.

Our compound in the  Penestanan section of Ubud

Meanwhile, we've been brushing up on our rusty Malaysian/Indonesian language skills from our Peace Corps days in 1978-80 and our 2008 Rotary visit, and they're coming back nicely.

Drift Creek Falls 

It seems like I just returned from my bike trip last week.  My mind is often there on some deserted Utah road or sipping a beer with fellow riders.  I miss them so much, and the trip gets better with the passage of time.  I also miss the shape I was in and the ability to eat anything and everything I wanted with impunity.

Wine Country--Domain Drouhin

However being back in Oregon with Kathy and our routine has also been good.  I got some great bike rides in, including two on my “new” bike--the actual bike I used on the Zion-Bryce trip. What a joy, and the Willamette Valley is a beautiful part of the world in which to ride.

Metolius River with Airstreamers

We managed three more camping trips, some hikes, outings to wineries, and a mountain bike ride.   Kathy had two five-day trips to Burbank for her national  board duties for the Assistance League.

Canyon Meadows 7 Three Finger Jack

Two interesting glitches--we had our first blowout on our trailer on a trip to the coast.  This made for a total of 8 flat tires this year--one for each vehicle, three on my big bike trip, and one on each of our other bikes.

On our way to an Airstream rally (where we had to be evacuated because of high winds blowing down trees in the campground), a service station attendant filled our diesel VW Touareg with gasoline.  We unknowingly drove it another 60 miles, and we are lucky to be alive and glad to have insurance to cover the $9,400 bill.

Evacuated Airstreams, one VW with gasoline

Fall colors from one of our decks

As fall colors fade and the cold fog settles in, we’ve enjoyed the season for concerts, opera, fundraisers, and getting together with friends.

At Die Fledermaus, Portland Opera

One of Ron's famous cooking messes

Going to the gym; 6:12 AM, 22 degrees, 4 layers

Now, it's time to avoid all the insane holiday hype, the dreary weather, and get tropical!

Days 12, 13, and 14—I did it!

Friday, September 13--I did it, we did it!

“When will I be in shape for this trip,” I asked the tour operator last January.  I explained that with my scheduled March elbow surgery and other travel plans, I wouldn't really be able to start training for it until mid-July. “You’ll be in shape for it at the same time as everyone else--on the last day of the ride,” he answered.  He was right!

Air pollution concern?

I woke up in Taos after my most restful sleep of the trip, and nothing hurt.  I felt great and anxious to hit the road, but with some trepidation because we were cautioned that it would be a challenging day.  The group, looking at my huge order of eggs and beans, suggested that I ride at the back of the pack, but I was determined not to be last on this last day of riding.

Earlier in the day, we came from the other side

Ron and Barb Douglas huffing up he "hill" from Taos

 The 78-mile ride to Santa Fe on the Historic High Road to Taos had its ups and downs--literally.  We started off in the absolute best of spirits, climbing for 20 miles.  The scenery was beautiful and varied.  We rode through several artist communities, historic missions, and cemeteries.  The weather was cool.  We had some good downhill runs—sometimes as much as a 13% grade--according to my Garmin GPS.

Our lunch stop

What a view, what a ride, but watch out for crosswinds!

On the flip side, we had 6,200 feet of climbing, headwinds, crosswinds, traffic and rough roads. The cross winds nearly blew us over, taking the joy out of the steep downhill runs and making the flats and the climbs challenging.  Above all, we encountered some either clueless or complete A-hole drivers that nearly ran us off the road a few times.  If this had been the first day of the trip, I wonder if I would have continued.  With elaborately-decorated roadside memorial crosses every 2-5 miles along the curvy and narrow road, I wondered how many of them were for bicyclists.  

Cross wind country

The mother of all cattleguards

Dan fixing my 3rd flat

The last 20 miles in the strong crosswinds and steep climbs were probably the longest and hardest I ever experienced on a bike, except for Day 5 with the vultures circling above me in Glen Canyon in 104 heat. I wanted to see what this 63-year old mind and body of mine were capable of doing, something I haven’t done since I had retired from running and sprint triathlons 11 years ago.  In that sense it was a twisted form of fun, especially with my three afternoon riding companions.  Dan, Liz, and Debbie, you rock!

After nine hours we arrived at our Santa Fe hotel, cold, starving, out of water, exhausted, but elated.  I did it, we did it! 

Liz, Debbie, me, and Dan  Time to party!

We started with 15; 5 left us at Durango, leaving 9 of us for the final week.  Only 3 of the 15 made it the full 885 miles.

In 13 days, with one day off, I rode 825 miles, an average of about 70 miles per day.  I climbed 49,000 feet, with our highest elevation going over a 10,400 foot pass. I had three flat tires, including one during my last three hours of riding. And—if you can believe my Garmin again—I burned 27,000 calories.  I know I consumed far more than that, and way more beer, eggs, potato chips, and beef than I consume in months.  

It Wasn't All About the Bike

Although we talked a lot about bikes a little too much, the trip was not about the bike.  It was about the fun people in the group,  our meals together over local brews and wine, teamwork, the friendly and helpful guides, the breath-taking scenery (and breath-taking hills), testing our ability to carry on, and above all the sense of common purpose and adventure.   

Three weeks ago, recuperating from pneumonia and trying to get some altitude training at Paulina Lake, OR I really had my doubts.  And those doubts continued through our first day of only 16 miles of climbing the hills out of Zion.  But I took daughter Skyler's advice:  shift early, rest often,  drink lots of water, eat a lot, and promise yourself 'just one more mile.' It worked.  Thank you, Skyler!

Thanks to Ron and Barb Douglas for encouraging me to sign up, and especially to Dan (DeRuyter)--the-man-lead-sled dog--for making the winds easier on all us.  And certainly to our guides, Ben, Bertrand, and Joe, and Lizard Head Cycling for making it a wonderful experience for all of us. 

I’m glad I did it—at least once.

I'll miss you guys!  Please stay in touch!

Now Backtracking to  Day 12 Thursday, September 11  Ojo Caliente to Taos

A beautiful easy 42 miles to Taos.  We were all high energy and pedaling at a good clip with nice tail winds part of the way.  We stopped for lunch next to the Rio Grande Gorge.  Got caught up in some road construction about 10 miles from Taos.



About 10 miles from Taos

The Rio Grande Gorge



On the gorge bridge

The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge

I got run off the road by an 18-wheeler gravel truck. With only two feet of clearance, oncoming traffic, and no shoulder it created a cross wind that sucked me right next to it.  Fortunately it was a controlled "exit" into a large U-shaped weed-filled ditch, and there was no harm to my bike, me or my middle figure.  My first real close call of the whole trip.  Unfortunately, it wasn't the last (see Day 13).

My brother Neal says that there are only about 10 or so truly unique cities/towns in the world that cannot be replicated, such as Paris, New York, Venice, Wash DC, Las Vegas, Kathmandu, etc. Taos is one of them.  This place is the oldest living city in the US, well established before the pilgrims landed.

The Historic Taos Inn

We stayed in a 200-year old historic hotel that used to be the town square.  My room's walls were 18 inches thick.  We enjoyed the afternoon exploring the shops, then had a Mexican dinner where Dan and Liz presented Bertrand, our French guide, a crepe pan.  Dan and Liz--you should have done so at the beginning of the trip!

My Room

Guide Bertrand & his new crêpe pan

Barb and Debbie, with Debbie's visiting husband, Larry



Now Leaping Froward to Saturday, September 13, Day 14--Homeward Bound

Fun final meal with everybody last night in Santa Fe.  I was almost too tired to enjoy it.  Hoping to sleep in until 7:00, I woke up at 6:00 after only 7 hours of sleep.  I felt fatigued most of the morning, but got energized at the airports and on the flights working on my photos and this blog.  Best of all, nothing hurts!

I'm so looking forward to being home with Kathy, eating her's and my cooking, and going back to my regular routines, including work.  Maybe I'll convert my office chair into a bicycle seat, and get a high-speed fan to blow wind in my face.



Day 11--Chama to Ojo Caliente, NM

Wednesday, September 10

What I love so much about this trip is that every day is different.  The only commonalities are being on a bike, the rest stops, and the camaraderie among us nine riders and two guides.  Today was a 95-mile ride that included a 3,000 foot climb to the top of a 10,400 foot pass.  What made it so different? The alpine beauty!

We had breakfast in the parking lot.  Barely 30 seconds into my 7:00 AM start, I had a flat.  I couldn't have picked a better place to have one, with two very mechanically adept guides right there. However, I was basically the last or next-to the last rider, and rode alone much of the day.  

View from near the top.  We came from way down there!

I made it!  10,400'

After 15 miles of riding in 40 degree fog on a flat busy highway, the 15 mile climb from 7,000 feet to the top of a 10,400 foot pass began.  From sagebrush to aspen, forests to meadows, we were treated with beautiful variety at almost every turn.  The cottonwoods in the ranchlands were just starting to change to golden.

Ranchland and contented cattle

The final 30 into the wind

Lush ranchland

Except for two more  "hills" the remaining 65 miles were a gradual descent back down to sagebrush country to Ojo Caliente, our destination.   The last 30 miles were a grind with headwinds, but well worth it when we arrived at this oasis.

The long, gradual descent

 Built in 1896, but used for centuries by native Americans, Ojo Caliente is on the national register of historic places.   It is the only non-sulphur hot springs in the US, with four different pools with different minerals--including arsenic!  The soak,  the food, and the camaraderie were great!  All in all, a very memorable day.

Debbie, me, Dan, and Ron

On to Taos, tomorrow.

Day 10--Mostly Dodging the Bullet--Pagosa Springs CO-Chama, NM

Tuesday, September 8

It poured inches of rain last night.   When we woke up, it was cloudy and calm, but the forecast called for heavy rains around noon.  We packed for rain, then headed to a nearby bakery for one of our best breakfasts ever---aka, no hotel buffet of eggs, bacon, hasbrowns, no fruit, etc.  Today I resolved to eat lighter, and it paid off, especially on the hills immediately after breakfast.  The double late helped, I'm sure.

I rode with Debbie, from Alberta, Canada most of the way.  The scenery was beautiful, but as the morning progressed, the storm clouds threatened.  I should have put on more sunscreen.

Beautiful scenery an hour before the rains.  

Looking North, at the Colo-NM border

Does this really need a caption?

Shortly after crossing the border into New Mexico,  we enjoyed a nice rest stop with hot coffee, then, right around noon, the heavens opened up with torrential sideways winds. Fortunately there was no lightening, and it lasted for only five miles, then tapered off for the remaining 12 miles.  Water was oozing out of my new bike shoes.  I was glad it was only 49 miles.

Che Berrand with his chicken and ratatouli

Liz, Dan, Wayne, & Mary

Debbie and I were the first to arrive in Chama, in the middle of Nowhere, NM.  We're staying at the Branding Iron Motel with a number of bow hunters and construction workers.

Barb, Ron, Debbie, & Robert

Our guides, Bertrand and Joe had hot soup waiting for us in the parking lot.  I zoned out and enjoyed a comatose 1.5 hour nap.

Later Bertrand, who owned a French restaurant in Telluride fixed us a delightful meal of ratatouille, chicken, and rice. We enjoyed it with the wine we purchased last Friday.  And then, the Lena and Ole jokes started....

The best rural motel dinner ever!

Tomorrow we climb over a 10,000 foot pass on a 95 mile trip to Ojo Caliente, again in the middle of nowhere.  But I hear it has hot springs and mud baths.  The weather forecast is looking much better.