New Zealand’s North Island—It’s Different Here

Cruising on the Bay of Islands Christmas Eve

We fell in love with New Zealand’s South Island, but were cautioned that the North Island won’t be the same. They were right. Similar, but distinctly different, kind of like two children. We love them each for themselves and their differences. 

We flew into Wellington, the nation’s capital. Once we hit the road after two days, the differences were apparent. It was more populous (76% of NZ’s population), more industrial, more logging and ranching, more pastoral, flatter, and volcanic. Fewer campervans, tourists, and national parks, also. But still very beautiful. There were parts where we expected to see Frodo, Sam, and Gandolf along the road. And the delightfully sweet smell of jasmine and manuka honey was everywhere.

Tattoos are common among the Maori.
Many, like the one above, tells stories about
both sides of one’s family.

We also noticed fewer guest workers and more ethnic Māori, who were the original settlers to this country in about 1250 before the British came in the late 1700’s. (Imagine, this big land was the last to be populated by humans only 800 years ago!)

The Māori are about 19% of the NZ’s 5.3 million population, but about 85% of them live on the North Island. It seemed like we saw more street signs, kiosks, and labels of things in Māori as well as English. We really got into learning more about their culture and NZ history.

A Maori war canoe, over 100 meters long,
similar to the ones the Maori used when crossing the
Pacific, but without sails and outriggers.

Kathy and a Maori in
a traditional greeting

For us, our South Island itinerary was almost all about rugged scenery and wildlife. On this island, it was more about specific things, such as geological wonders, an Art Deco city, glowworm caves, scenic beaches, and of course, Hobbiton. More about them below.

Even though we drove nearly 1000 miles over two weeks. There is so much we didn’t see or do.

So, enough about the differences. Let’s hit the road with just a few of the many highlights. And speaking of roads, the North Island is about the same size as England proper, but only 1/11th of the population. 

Wider and smoother than average.
Many surfaces are rough chip seal

The roads demand fully engaged driving. While wider than those in England, they are seldom straight, level, or have four lanes.

Wellington

In Wellington we spent an afternoon in its national museum. It contained perhaps the most moving war exhibit or war museum we have ever visited. The one-hour experience told the story from the perspective of the frontline soldiers in the WWI campaign in Gallipoli, Turkey. All for nothing.

A WWI memorial in Napier

Everywhere we went this past month, we noticed war monuments in most towns. It turns out that in both wars, New Zealanders had the highest per capita death and casualty rate of any country in the Commonwealth, and almost in the world. More than 10% of its small population served—mostly on the frontlines—making this per capita toll so high.

Napier

We loved Napier. In 1931 a devastating earthquake leveled much of this seaport town on the SE coast. The locals rebuilt it in Art Deco style. So classy and refreshing in an old/new way! Our hotel room was just two doors down from where Queen Elizabeth II stayed in 1954. (Just think, I could have sat on the Royal Throne!)

We loved this town! But then, we love the
Art Deco style.

Waitomo

And then there were the glowworm caves of Waitomo. Wow! Talk about something we’ve never experienced before! The whole area is full of sinkholes and creeks. Cadis fly larvae hatch after floating into the cave stream and, thinking they are flying into the stars at night, get ensnared in sticky strands of the glowworms. The drift along the small river through the cave was surreal.

The sticky webs that glow in the dark

A time exposure by our guide

Volcanos, Geysers, and Craters, Oh My!

From that geological/biological marvel we went to the Rotorua area, much like a condensed Yellowstone on steroids, minus the bears and large mammals. (See our previous blog post). In 1896, a massive volcanic eruption similar in nature to Mt. St. Helens created a vast wasteland and a new crater. Now, 129 years later, everything is green and beautiful, but with simmering geysers along the trail down to the lake.

The crater rim, before our hike down to the lake. 
There was absolutely nothing here in 1896

And not far from there we witnessed the 4th highest geyser in the world (after Old Faithful, and one in Iceland and Russia) and some boiling mudpots. As this was a sacred place for the Māori, we learned more about their culture and saw some rare and endangered kiwi birds.

The Shire

One of many Hobbit homes. The attention to
detail was astounding!

The shire, but much of the countryside looks like
this many miles away.

It’s hard to decide, but we think Hobbiton was our favorite. This was the site of the Shire in the Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit. It was so magical, but educational at the same time. It’s our happy place. We spent 2.5 hours touring the set and expected to see a Hobbit at any time. The attention to detail was amazing. Yet, only 14 minutes of this set made it into all four movies! It took two years to build, and was torn down and returned to pasture after the Lord of Rings trilogy was over. It was rebuilt for The Hobbit. This time the farmer struck a deal with Peter Jackson to keep it and to add tourist infrastructure. Smart guy! The Shire countryside can be seen through much of the North Island.

Cathedral Cove, named by
Captain Cook in 1769

We spent the last week exploring the NE coastal areas and Auckland. Much of the country shuts down for Christmas and Boxing Day, so this was our cue to enjoy a subtropical Christmas, even with cloudy and rainy weather.

Although we noticed playground cricket games, rugby is New Zealand’s obsession. And the Kiwis have dominated the sport internationally for years.

The female version of the Haka dance before
A game.

So, on a whim in Aukland, we decided to improve upon our micro knowledge of rugby by going to an interactive experience. We stood on the line as an opposing team would while the Kiwis did their Haka dance, as they do before every game. Very interesting—and intimidating!

Overall, this was a most excellent adventure, and we’re grateful that we were able to undertake it. New Zealand is hard to get to and it takes a month to get just a taste of it. We would have preferred less driving. But the true gems of New Zealand are in its interior and the opportunities to meet so many truly nice people. We will cherish memories of our time exploring it together, the astounding scenery, and of everyone we met.

We have more fun facts at the bottom. Be sure to read our previous blog because these are new ones.

More photos from posts on this trip are on my Instagram account (or @KelemenRon.) Also on my public Facebook profile, (Posts) which doesn’t require you to be a friend to view them. Enjoy!

”What We Can, While We Can”

”What We Could, While We Could”

Shire-like countryside, even miles away from Hobbiton.

Odds and Ends & Fun Facts(In addition to those mentioned in our post about the South Island):

• New Zealand is often called Aotearoa, a Māori word meaning land of the long white cloud.

• Clean public restrooms with toilet paper are everywhere, 

  

  A super artistic one in Matakana

  Especially in the small towns, which are mostly linear and often have covered walkways. The one to the right is much fancier than most.

• Nearly every town, large or small has at least one book store, many are independent.

• Unlike in the flag-waving USA, we saw very few New Zealand flags. If we did, they were at a government building or monument.

• New Zealand gets about 85% of its energy from renewable sources, mostly from hydropower, but with geothermal, wind, and solar in supporting roles.

• Kiwis (the human ones) love beets. They are a common ingredient in burgers.

• Real kiwis and other flightless birds are rapidly becoming extinct.

  

  They are nocturnal, mate
  for life, and fight mating
  competitors to the death

  
  Thus, rodent traps are visible along hiking trails and dogs are generally banned in all national parks and reserves. 

• No matter the size of town, we could always find Thai, North Indian, or sushi, but not so with Chinese food. Olive oil is rare, but not so for deep fried everything or pastries.

• After currency conversion, prices for most things are about 56% of the States. However, gas costs about $6-7 US per gallon. American gas prices are a bargain!

• 

  At the Zane Grey restaurant for
  Christmas Dinner

  Zane Grey, the American Western novelist, hung out frequently in the Bay of Islands in the NE. We had a Christmas dinner in a restaurant named after him.

  

  From a hilltop on one of the islands in the
  Bay of Islands in the NE