Leopards, Beaches, and the Tsunami Zone

Relaxing at rebuilt Koggala Beach
Hotel, which was destroyed
in the 2004 tsunami.

Changes in elevation and climate can happen fast in Sri Lanka.  From over a mile high in tea country, we descended to the steamy sea level on the SE coast in a matter of just three hours by rail and winding roads.  Once again we were delightfully surprised upon arrival in the dark to a rustic jungle camp welcoming us with fragrant incense throughout the camp.  

On the edge Yala National Park,  we enjoyed two nights under under a mosquito net and  an expansive thatched roof.  Better still, it was some of the best food of the trip, perhaps because it was cooked on a wood stove by nearby locals.

Home sweet home for two nights

At home on their range

Dining hall.  We were the only guests all month

Bringing in the boats

Sashi, our local host took us to a nearby fishing village that was devastated by the 2004 Tsunami.  That whole area was wiped out, and really hasn’t recovered.  We helped them drag a boat into shore, and the headman gave us a couple of fish as thanks.  

These gifts sure tasted good coked on the campfire

Later we took a tuktuk for a one hour round trip to town for beer, and cash for the park entry fees—which are very steep for foreigners.  (You can see a fun video of that on Instagram @kelemenron.)

The park wasn’t a jungle as we think of one, but rather mostly shrubs and trees no higher than 30 feet tall.  However,  it was dense, making it hard to spot wildlife.  We saw a few elephants, wild boar, water buffalo, peacocks, sambar deer and  two leopards.  And perhaps over 50 other safari vehicles jockeying for position around leopard sightings.  Although the tsunami ravaged the low-lying areas of the park, few, if any a animals were killed.  They had some sixth sense and moved upland before the waves hit.

A leopard on, yes, Leopard Rock

A leopard jam

Many Sri Lankans weren’t so lucky.  Over 35,000 were killed, including 1,200 on a coastal train full off travelers for the holidays.  More than 900,000 were left homeless.  Unlike the gigantic surf waves that hit Banda Aceh, Indonesia 960 miles away, or Phuket Thailand, these 36-foot waves were more like a series of fast-moving tidal surges 180 feet wide.  Fifteen years later, much of the coastal towns, villages, and roads have been rebuilt, but there are still many reminders of this disaster, like the fishing village we visited.  We stopped at the tsunami museum,  marked by a 36-foot tall Buddha.  Its height drove home the magnitude of the surging waves.

Boxing Day tragedy. (Not my photo, of course)

Imagine a 36' wave as tall as this
coming at you at 400 MPH

We spent two relaxing days at Koggala Beach, where the photo at the top was taken. It's like Hawaii at a fraction of the cost. This place is famous for its stilt fishermen. The locations are highly prized and handed down generation to generation.

Stilt fisherman

Only two at that morning,
and they had caught nothing.

Gihan Panditaratne, the Rotarian who stayed us in October and who made many of our trip arrangements, picked us up at Kogggala Beach and drove us to Colombo, where we spent three fun days with him and his family.  We weren’t expecting much about Colombo (pop. 1 million), but it turned out to be a very nice city.  It’s huge, and so is its traffic.  But it’s clean and growing.  

One of many new high rises, with
more under construction

City hall under Buddha's watchful eye

Touring the Friend-In-Need Society which
partners with Rotary to provide artificial
limbs for citizens all over Sri Lanka.

The best part about Columbo was staying with the warmhearted and hospitable Panditaratnes.  They went out of their way to make sure we were well-fed with the best dishes Sri Lanka has to offer.  

Gihan and Arosha's home 

Rheya, Gihan and Arosha

It’s going to be hard saying goodbye to them tonight as we depart for home.  And for that matter, it's going to be hard to say goodbye to Sri Lanka and all of the wonderful people we met along the way.  What a trip!

"What We Can, While We Can!"

In a few days I'll have one more post entitled "Sri Lanka Between the Cracks." It will be odds and ends and photos that didn't fit our narrative, but better explain Sri Lanka.  It will also include a link to our best shots.

Stopping for a fish pedicure
on the way to Colombo

20 nights, about 750 miles, and
immeasurable good experiences

Exploring some mangroves with Gihan en-route
to Colombo